Well we are back at the daily routine but I’m not up and running for another #fititfriday so here is a video I created for lining the Washi Dress sewing pattern from Made By Rae. I finished it back in October but never got around to blogging it. I did a full bust adjustment on the bodice and had to line it due to the transparent nature of the cotton lawn I made it in.
when your sewing project has to be put down for a little while.
Have you ever “failed” at a sewing project? Sometimes your project comes together all at once. You find a pattern then the perfect fabric (not your muslin but final garment fabric) then notions are easily procured. Sometimes it’s user error, sometimes its poor pattern fitting, this time it was a notions fail.
a cautionary tale
We all make mistakes, in sewing it can be hard to handle. Perhaps it’s because you have to destroy what you’ve just created. Here is how this outfit started out great but took some perseverance to get finished.
The event: a birthday party in a suite at the racetrack, with highs in the 80’s or 90’s I can’t remember (I ended up sick with a fever and didn’t get to wear it, whawha). Our going out usually consists of jeans and a nice shirt so this required a bit of a dressier outfit but also something that wouldn’t be too hot in this So Cal heat. I immediately knew what I wanted to make.
I had tested both patterns the View Ridge by Straight Stitch Designs and Cleo Skirt by Made by Rae, for these designers and shopped for fabrics with these specific patterns in mind. I knew what I wanted to use on them before I even paid for them so it seemed like a win before I even began. Oh how pride goes before a fall.
My experience and set up for ice dying a two yard piece of denim for making bespoke jeans.
Disclaimer: The substrate I am dyeing on was a gift from www.sewhere.com all other materials were purchased from the listed suppliers.
Too many months ago my friend Mallory gifted me some Cone Mills Stretch denim in natural to “do something fun” with. She suggested pants or a denim jacket and I knew jeans were where I would be heading. I live in jeans and tee shirts. Maybe it’s my up bringing, Grandaddy used to wear “dungarees” and denim work jackets while he taught us how to grow orange trees in the FL heat. Athletic wear on my body everyday seems like a broken promise, and I have enough mom guilt.
Back to ice dyeing I took my sweet time figuring out the how and what, gathered many pinterest pins and finally settled on something that could read more floral and less Electric Daisy Carnival. I have shopped with Dharma Trading Co. before, picked up my indigo and some dye fabrics there and I love their website and customer service. I went with four colors: a turquoise, sage green, amber yellow, and orange. When dyeing with ice having a variety of light and dark colors as well as some contrasting colors (colors across from each other on a color wheel) can really enhance the outcome.
I received this online class free as a pattern tester prior to launch, but my opinions are my own.
Before this class I had only drafted clothing with the old fold and trace method. Where you lay your favorite tee or lounge pants on top of your fabric and trace around (including seam allowance) and cross your fingers. For knit pants or lounge wear it turned out ok, in most cases, but was hit or miss. I now know the joy of drafting to my measurements and it has opened up a whole new confidence in wardrobe.
If I have a bad day and need a confidence boost, I can pull out this pattern and whip up a new tee or tee dress in about the same amount of time it would take me to get to the mall and park. I can stay in my pajamas at home, and at the end I have something that fits!!
When this tee drafting class launched there was some fun talk about how it’s designed to be an easy to wear garment for your every day life. Like taking out the garbage,emptying the dishwasher, or setting your instapot for today’s dinner.
The class is sold by SewHere.com and The Self Sewn Wardrobe’s Mallory Donahue. She and her mother Zede host a podcast Sew Here and Mallory hosts a Facebook group called the Self Sewn Wardrobe with a podcast of her live broadcasts from the group. Both have an enormous volume of garment sewing know how, and the content is very informative and entertaining.
My EasyT starts with an online class that is broken up section by section, so you can stop and start as your life dictates. Mallory covers how to measure yourself, and fill in the worksheet that helps you add up your individual drafting numbers. I confess math is not my strong suit and I had to watch this segment two times because I needed to check my work, I tend to transpose numbers. After entering my numbers and following along with the video to calculate my pattern drafting points I was all set to chart some lines. The class also includes some bonus material, and new to me techniques.
I used Pellon tracing paper as that is what I had on hand, I like Swedish tracing paper because it’s a bit less slippery under my pen but almost any wide paper will do. I was able to watch and re-watch the initial drafting video multiple times since each chapter or segment is it’s own video. This was super helpful because I was interrupted more than once by “mom life” events. I used an acid green poly something I bought by the pound at The Loft and it shifted all the time. I was still able to finish it in less than an hour.
The EasyT class covers how to draft your own tee in woven with a few inches of ease so the shirt comes on and off easily and drapes nicely (depending on the type of woven you use, and Mallory covers material choice in one of the videos). I learned enough from the videos on the ease and drafting that by the end of the class I was able to make two more EasyT’s in tissue weight jersey and sweater knit, and then I thought “what about a tee dress” and BAM! an hour later I have my favorite house dress and it’s boring grey twin. I still have plans to draft one for my pre-pre-teen as she is getting harder to shop for and with this pattern I would be able to sew her a shirt for every day of the week on a good weekend.
Give it a try! I hear there are more video’s coming and the pod casts are full of useful info, and fun mother daughter banter.
I have posted about my first and most fabulous Harrison Shirt by Cashmerette Patterns. I made it out of Art Gallery Denim Collection and it is washing and wearing well (except for a little extra wrinkling in the collar but I think that’s a fusible interfacing issue)
I had a few yards of black double gauze and half a yard of a japanese print double gauze that I though would be an interesting version #2 with contrast back, cuffs, collar and button placket. Sadly the colors didn’t work for me, one was deep navy and the other true black. Maybe this should have been my first sign to change ideas but I persevered on.
After the new year I reorganized my sewing room (even well-organized places need a refresh after all) and had all my fabrics easily accessible based on what I was most likely to sew often. This unearthed a fine wale corduroy that I had purchased for the big kid probably four years ago or so, back when she still liked pink. Oh how things have changed. A lightbulb went off! Oh what about pink and black and pearl snap buttons!!! And at this point if you are wondering if I have western boots to go with this glorious concoction of contrasts the answer is yes, yes I do. They are grey with rainbow stitching and I found them at a thrift store for eleven bucks, I love treasure hunting.
So I began, body of the shirt to be black double gauze, back yolk and all little bits were going to be this corduroy print.
Everything was ok the fabrics were playing well together, they have a velcro like stick to each other capacity so less pins. But the corduroy shifts, and warps. Could be user error, not on straight grain or could be a sub par substrate (that is what the base fabric is called). I continued on and used my nifty new Tula Pink Surgical Seam ripper often. Did you know that it’s hard to seam rip black thread on black fabric? I think in the future I will go with navy or a deep grey as my glasses and Ott light didn’t help, I wonder if it was like that black paint and absorbing all the light so I couldn’t see?
Then I run out of black thread, sort of. I later realized I have cones of black serger thread but that’s ok, I went to one of our local independent retailers and found high quality thread (yes thread matters, listen here and find out why) and some seam tape for a future bra. I was on track to finish this shirt in time for my weekend. This project is a lesson in not rushing through.
My super cute light pink Dritz pearl snaps I bought on sale from WaWak were right where I needed them thanks to my organizing overhaul. I began with a cuff because if I mess up, there is less visual impact. Then where is my snap setter? Can’t find it anywhere. I have an eyelet press, a leather punch and no snap setter, seems wrong to me. Thank goodness for JoAnn’s coupons, in less than 30 minutes I have what I need and hammer away.
It’s not working. The prongs aren’t catching, try again with a new set, and it looks like I have it. I set the mate with no problem, woo hoo! I snap them together, nice tight fit, oh very tight, oh guess I need to pull harder (this is going to be challenging to do up or undo the front) and POP! The pearl back snap has popped off. GRRR. Ok I post a picture and my dilemma on one of my favorite FB groups and ask for help, we all need help sometimes. Prongs are probably too short for my fabrics. SIGH
This shirt is going to be awesome. When I have the right snaps or buttons, I don’t know what it is going to be at this time, but I do know that I don’t need to force it any further. I have a fun shirt that will be finished when the time is right and not a moment before. So there it hangs. I am happy with the fit and will not settle for notions that do not fit or function in a way that make it a pleasure to wear.
What is the longest you’ve had a project sit and wait for the final touches?